Information
Safe Rope Work and Belaying
Learning the ropes by Bren Whelan
The vertical world can present many new challenges to the unfamiliar, so in an effort to reduce at least some of those troublesome tangles. Outsider is starting a new rope work series that will examine the techniques of single and multi-pitch rock climbing. They are aimed at those of you who think that you need a magic flute in order to replicate the type of belays, which experienced climbers appear to pull off with such apparent ease. Over the next number of issues we intend to look at safe rope work, from the basics right through to improvised rescue systems.
Let’s start by looking at what you need to know when purchasing a new rope. Basically you have two different rope types, DYNAMIC (for climbing) and STATIC (used for abseiling, rigging etc). Under the title of Dynamic rope, there are a number of different rope styles. Each one has different performance related characteristics. Purchasing a second hand or nearly new rope is not recommended, due to the fact that the ropes history cannot be guaranteed. The following points are worth considering when purchasing a new rope from a recognised retailer.
Dynamic Ropes
Single Rope: A rope that is independently suitable for lead climbing. A length of 50metres is the standard, but it might be worth purchasing a rope of 55m or even 60m. This extra length will give you more options when setting up a belay at the end of a longer pitch. If you are concerned about the increased weight, diameters are now as low as 9.0mm. However, these ropes do have a lower fall rating. E.g. Mammut Revelation 9.0mm 54g Falls 5-6.
Half Rope: One half of a pair. These must be used in conjunction with at least another half rope in order to be suitable for lead climbing. They help increase the usefulness of either good or dubious protection; they also help reduce the amount of rope drag on a lead climber. Each rope is clipped individually into an alternative piece of protection. Great for climbing technical single or multi-pitch routes, but they tend to be harder to manage than a single rope. Always purchase two completely different coloured ropes to help avoid confusion!
Twin Rope: Rapidly becoming obsolete, due to the reduction in the diameter of modern half ropes. They must be used like a Single rope; both ropes must be clipped into the same piece of protection. They are more suited to ice or alpine climbing.
Construction
Labels: There are two possible standards that are shown on rope labels. Manufactures make ropes to the European standard (European Norms EN 892) and some also use the older UIAA standard.
Diameter and Weight: A rope with a larger diameter generally has a longer active life, but on certain routes this extra weight can be a problem. If you’re local area is roadside and you enjoy low-grade classic climbs, then a fat 10.5mm rope will be fine. But if you’re into climbing challenging multi-pitch test pieces, then a Single 60m, 9.0mm or a set of lightweight half ropes might be more suitable. It’s worth comparing other ropes of a similar diameter, as you can often get a lighter rope from another manufacturer. E.g. Beal Stinger 3, 9.4mm 57g
Impact Force: The force transmitted to a climber at the moment the fall is arrested. Choose a rope with a LOW IMPACT FORCE for reduced stress on the safety chain.
Number of Falls: Purchase a rope which holds the highest possible number of falls, at present this is up to 12.
Number of Bobbins: The ropes sheath is the visible part; it encircles and protects the ropes core. It is formed by a group of filaments: each woven from a bobbin. For an equal diameter, a larger number of bobbins will give better dynamic characteristics, and a smaller number will give better abrasion resistance.
Sheath Slippage: The core and the sheath of the rope are two independent components, which have a tendency, if the construction is not carefully matched, to dislocate and slide against each other. The sheath deforms and little by little under the effect of the belay device it bunches, creating a slack zone around the core and bulge points, creating a shock effect, this results in more rapid wear. Choose a rope with low sheath slippage or better still 0%, to avoid jamming.
Dry Treatment: A wet rope is unpleasant to handle and is prone to freezing. Various chemical and physical treatments exist to reduce the amount of moisture absorbed. Dry treatment helps increase the life of a rope by reducing the amount of dirt that enters into the weave, but the dry treatment does wear off after prolonged use. Great if you like winter or alpine climbing or even if you have a penchant for climbing in the rain!
Managing the ropes…
Good rope management is essential for safe and enjoyable climbing. All too often it seems as if the rope has a mind of its own! You need to take control of that multi coloured monster from the word go!
Uncoiling the monster…
When you uncoil the rope make a nice neat pile, with the bottom and top end clearly separated from the main pile. The top end is for the Leader and the bottom end for the Second, don’t mix them up! By using a rope bag at the bottom of a route, you can protect the rope from dirt and grit. This can help extend the life of your rope. You might want to consider marking one end of the rope a different colour. This will allow you to alternate which end of the rope you tie into for leading, and will allow for a systematic amount of wear on each end of the rope.
Figure 3… Photo of uncoiled rope
Tying on (a good foundation for the future)…
Both climbers should always tie in to their respective ends of rope, especially when one is intent on leading a climb. When you tie in, thread the rope through your harness as per the manufactures instructions. By tying in with the rope, you create what is known as the “Central Loop”. This is a dynamic rope loop, which can have many karabiners clipped into it. These might be coming from either a belay device or from multiple anchor points. By attaching via the “Central Loop” you can make life easier and safer for yourself, should either the leader or the second get into difficulty. This is a safer practise than the one of belaying off the “Abseil Loop” on your harness. The “Abseil Loop” is made from webbing, which doesn’t absorb dynamic forces. This loop is designed for static loads, such as the ones that are created in an Abseiling or Bottom Roping situation. A rethreaded figure of eight knot or a double bowline (with a stopper knot), are the most appropriate knots for tying in with. When tied, the “Central Loop” should only be fist sized!
Never allow yourself to become distracted whilst you are either putting on your harness or tying in. I have witnessed a number of incidents where leaders have lead crux pitches with buckles undone, knots unfinished or tied incorrectly. Not a desirable situation in such an unforgiving vertical world!
Bren Whelan is a member of the
Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI)
and holds the Mountain Instructors Certificate(MIC).
More info: http://mountaintraining.ie/index.php?lnk=courses&type=mpa
