Information
Learn to use Via Ferrata
A Brave New World! by Bren Whelan
For those who consider themselves too sensible for rockclimbing, there is something else out there, something that will stimulate you, whilst still allowing you to feel alive and in control of your own destiny!
All across Europe and around the world VIA FERRATA are attracting people young and old. So what is this new foreign craze which is gaining such a huge following?
In an effort to help you understand this confusing world of cable, Outsider has gone out and about in foreign parts to investigate.
In the Beginning…
The first Via Ferrata were created by the warring Italian and Austrian armies in the early 19th century. They were built in an effort to increase troop mobility in order to gain maximum tactical advantage in the mountain areas.
Then in 1936 the Italian Alpine Club created the first tourist friendly version in the stunning Dolomite area of the Italian Alps. The Dolomites are generally considered to be the Via Ferrata capital of the mountaineering world.
What’s a Via Ferrata?
Via Ferrata is an Italian phrase meaning “Iron Way”. The Austrians and Germans call them call “Kletterstieg”, but the world over; Via Ferrata is the generally excepted term. They consist of fixed cables, metal rungs, various types of bridges and pig tail pitons! Via Ferrata generally weave a line through what would normally be considered as rock climbing terrain. Cables, metal rugs and some pretty funky bridges are very securely anchored to the mountain. (See picture 1)
Pulling on the cable or standing on the equipment is not considered ‘taboo’ when climbing on a Via Ferrata as it would be when rock climbing. On a Via Ferrata the next massive hand or foot hold is never usually far away!
Who Can Do A Via Ferrata?
Anyone and everyone, as long as you have the right equipment, a good level of fitness and head for heights! There is Via Ferrata to suit both young and old. If you lack experience and equipment, you can hire an instructor or guide who will supply all the essential equipment as well as lead you safely up and down the route.
Are Via Ferrata a Hazard Free Zone?
NO! Definitely not. If you are considering tackling a Via Ferrata you must use specialised equipment. Although you are constantly connected to a cable the points at which that cable is fixed to the mountain might be anywhere from 4 to 10 metres apart. So, if you slip or fall off on a tricky vertical section you will still fall down to the last point where the cable is anchored.
The Essential Kit!
A certified Via Ferrata energy absorbing self belaying system must be used in order to stay safe. This will in the event of a fall help, reduce the ‘impact force’ on the body as it comes to a sudden stop. The system consists of dynamic rope and two ‘cows’ tails’ with a specialised karabiner at each end. These allow the user to leap frog safely over the points where the cable is anchored to the mountain. In between anchor points it’s always best to keep both karabiners connected to the cable (See picture 2). There is also a specialised energy absorbing brake as part of the system, through which the rope is thread. This brake normally has a sling connected to it which should be ‘larks footed’ on to a climbing harness. Adults will often wear a full body harness, children should always wear one.
There are many Via Ferrata systems on the market and companies like Salewa and Petzl have put a lot of time, effort and of course money into developing some of the most efficient kit available. Prices range from €60 to a €100. Always read the instructions on new equipment carefully and if in doubt seek guidance from a suitably qualified instructor or guide.
Don’t do this!
Often climbers will try to improvise by using normal climbing slings or a short piece of climbing rope and two climbing karabiners connected to a climbing harness. This is a dangerous practise, although this system will keep them connected to the cable. In the event of a fall this improvised system will not absorb the energy of a fall, which could lead to horrific high impact injuries.
Other Essential Kit…
A normal climbing helmet is essential when journeying along a Via Ferrata route. Often there will be other parties operating above you, which means there is always the possibility of a rock being dislodged or you just banging your head.
Also essential are finger less gloves (the best kind are ones which provide grip, woolly ones won’t do!) as the continuous use of the cables or metal rugs can be hard work on the hands.
You don’t need any specialised climbing shoes, sturdy shoes or boots are perfect, although you might want to consider the approach and exit from the Via Ferrata. If you finish on a high mountain top boots would be more suitable than runners for the descent.
A small rucksack, a spare fleece, a bottle of water, some food, a small first aid kit and depending on the time of year a head torch can prove very useful! And always bring the guide book with you!
To Rope or not To Rope?
If you feel as though you need security beyond the equipment already mentioned, you can use a rope. In order for a rope to increase a party’s safety on a route, at least one member of the group must be familiar with the skills of knot tying, belaying and the skills that are normally required when leading a rock climb outdoors. If in doubt hire a qualified instructor or guide to take you on the route, or select a route which is well within your experience or capabilities.
The Setting…
Stunning usually describes the setting of most Via Ferrata. Although they started out in the mountain environment they have now spread to cities, towns and ski resorts.
You can Via Ferrata your way up along side the edge of a 100metre waterfall or use one to scale a high altitude summit in the Alps.
Grading!
The grading of Via Ferrata presents an immense problem. Currently there are a couple of grading systems in use. Always read the guidebook carefully as it will usually explain how the particular system it uses works.
Guide books in English are widely available through outdoor shops or via the internet.
One system which is used is the Alpine Grading system. The system only gives an overall impression of the routes technical difficulty as a whole. The system doesn’t take into account any of the individual crux climbing sections or esoteric features which you may encounter enroute.
At present routes area graded from F to ED, which means:
F = Facile (Easy)
PD = Peu Difficile (Not Very Hard)
AD = Assez Difficile (Fairly Hard)
D = Difficile (Hard)
TD = Tres Difficile (Very Hard)
ED = Extremement Difficile (Extremely Hard!)
Another one which you will also see uses a two tier system. A number from 1 to 5 is used to give over a technical difficulty, followed by either the letter A, B or C to give an overall impression of the seriousness.
Technical Difficultly…
1. Easy
2. Straightforward, but you need a head for heights
3. Difficult and not intended for a novice
4. Demanding, the route involves the ascent of steep rock faces
5. A route of the highest technical standard, only for the most experienced user
Seriousness…
A. Straightforward outing in unthreatening mountain terrain
B. Routes which require a degree of mountaineering experience
C. Routes only for the experienced mountaineer
So if you are a complete novice, you would select a route from the guidebook graded either Graded Facile or Grade 1 A for maximum pleasure.
A good guide book will also help over the come problem of trying to interpret the grading system, by the use of pictograms to highlight individual difficulties on the route.
Finally…
Be safe. If in doubt hire an instructor or guide and use only certified Via Ferrata equipment.
