Information

Disadvantages

1. It is the route by which the greatest amount of people summit and is VERY popular in the summer.
2. The Grand Couloir, which must be crossed beyond the Tete Rousse hut whilst on the way to the Gouter hut must be crossed extremely careful and very early in the day either on ascent or descent.
3. The Gouter hut is uncomfortable due to overcrowding and is often impossible to get a place in during peak times.
4. It can be difficult for many people who aren’t properly acclimatised to spend at night at nearly 4000meters.
5. Many objective dangers on the Gouter route are masked by the routes APPERENT ease.
6. The Bosses Ridge is steep, exposed and narrow in places. The ridge can also be very icy at times.
7. The mountain can be extremely cold and windy. Watch for the locally known ‘donkey cloud’ which forms over the summit. Once wind speeds exceed 55kms per hour summit attempts should be postponed.

The Ascent…
The following breakdown is based on the standard two day ascent of the mountain, using the Gouter hut as a base. You can of course slow your ascent down and opt for 3 or 4 days using the Tete Rousse hut on the ascent and then stay a second night in the Gouter on the descent. This has the advantage of allowing time to study the Grand Couloir on ascent as well as taking the sting out of that massive 2436meters of descent after you’ve summited.
 
Stage 1: Valley to Nid d’Aigle- There are two possible starting points for the Gouter route. The first option, for those based in Chamonix, is the Bellevue cable car. Arrive early for the first lift at 8.15am. There are free and secure parking spaces at the station. Les Houches is 15mins drive south of Chamonix just off the motorway. From the top station at Bellevue a short walk of 100meters too link up with the Tram Mont Blanc (TMB). Purchase a new RETURN ticket for the TMB. The tram will take you up to the Nid d’Aigle. The first tram may be extremely busy.
The second possible start point is from Le Fayet which is further south of Chamonix and Les Houches. This the starting point for the TMB. Starting here will ensure that you get the first tram to the Nid d’Aigle. If you’re based in Chamonix, Les Houches is an easier option. Keep Le Fayet in mind if for some reason there’s a problem at Bellevue. At the Nid d’Aigle check if you need to book a place on a return tram.

Day 1 = 5 Hours (+1445meters)
 Nid d’Aigle (2372m) -> Baraque des Rognes (2768m) = 1hr (+396m)
 Baraque des Rognes (2768m) -> Tete Rousse hut (3167m) = 1hr 30mins (+399)
 Tete Rousse hut (3167m) -> Gouter hut (3817m) = 2hrs 30mins (+650m)

Stage 2: Nid d’Aigle to Tete Rousse glacier & hut- From the Nid d’Aigle, go south along a wide track. After 50meters, take the path on the left (watch for red marks) ignore the path on the right which leads to the Bionnassay Glacier. Follow the zig zags up to the ridge line and to the Baraque des Rognes hut (2768m). Once on top of the ridge follow the path, cairns, red markings and at times short sections of cable towards the Tete Rousse Glacier and hut (3167m).

Stage 3: Tete Rousse to the Gouter hut via the Grand Couloir (GC)- From this point the route becomes much more interesting. This section should be considered a climb in its own right due to its overall difficulties. Above the Tete Rousse hut go up the left bank of the Tete Rousse Glacier. There is a possibility of stone fall from this point, wear a helmet!

WARNING! Some guidebooks suggest ascent via the Payot Ridge (on the left-side of the GC) or the Rochers Rouge Ridge (on the right bank of the GC).

DO NOT! Take either of these routes as you risk dislodging even more rocks on those following the standard route.

Approach the GC area slowly. Look, listen and get a feel for the crossing as well as the route above. On the left side of the GC you can shelter safely and watch other people crossing. Take time here to understand the crossing. It’s best to reach this point early in the morning when it is in the shade. Do not clip into the cable strung the GC. Wait, look and listen. When it’s safe, cross quickly (watch out for others coming in the opposite direction!). Go towards the sheltered rock on the far side. From here follow the cables and red markings upwards. This section of the route is very steep in places, you might want to consider wearing a harness and clipping into the cable with sling and a karabiner. The route above weaves its way steeply upwards towards the Gouter hut. This section is given Grade II alpine. Take whatever safety precautions you and your party deem necessary. Be aware at all times of people moving above you. The potential for rock fall is enormous here!

Warning! If there is a lot of fresh snow below the Gouter hut, there is a potential avalanche hazard.

Stage 4: Gouter hut to the Vallot hut- Familiarise yourself with the start of the route the day before so you know where you’re going in the dark (and to acclimatise). From the hut gain the snowy crest (axe/pole & crampons from this point). The first part of the route is almost flat, head south-south east towards the Dome du Gouter (4304m). From here the terrain is straight forward. Follow the track that heads towards the Dome (4304m). The glacier is generally straight forward and friendly. From the Dome descend into the Col du Dome (4258m). This can be good place to take a rest. Go south-east to the lower slopes of Bosses Ridge. On the left will see two huts. The lower hut is the Vallot Observatory, which is closed to the public. The upper hut is the Vallot bivouac hut and is open. Take care as you approach the hut as the slopes are often icy. Approach on the left (down hill-side) and enter via a ladder and hatch at the far end of the building. Many mountaineers will rest and take shelter here during their summit climb. You can of course by pass it. If you arrive early you may find the hut full of sleeping climbers who couldn’t get a space in the Gouter and who were not willing to camp lower down.

Day 2 = 10 Hours (+996m) Height loss (-2436m)
 Gouter hut (3817m) -> Shoulder below Dome du Gouter (4260m) = 2hrs (+443)
 Shoulder below Dome du Gouter (4260m) -> Col du Dome (4255) = 15mins (-5m)
 Col du Dome (4255) -> Vallot shelter (4362m) = 30mins (+107)
 Vallot shelter (4362m) -> Mont Blanc (4810m) = 2hrs (+446m)
 Mont Blanc (4810m) -> Nid d’Aigle (2372m) = 6/7hrs (-2436m)

Stage 5: the Vallot hut to the summit of Mont Blanc-  Leave the hut and head towards the Bosses Ridge (these slopes are often very icy). You are now at an area known as the ‘Dromedary’s Humps’ which has two humps instead of one! Go over the Grande Bosses (4513m) and then the Petite Bosses (4547m). Be careful of the cornices. Now a fabulous whale back ridge now leads to the summit. This ridge is steep, narrow and seriously exposed in places. The snow is often wind scoured and extremely icy. Also there is the added danger of people bumbling their way up and down the route. Extreme care is required as you approach the summit as people will possibly try and pass you as they descend.

Stage 6: the summit of Mont Blanc to the Nid d’Aigle- During the ascent you should take stock of the terrain behind and around you. Note features, cairns and false trails which may either help or hinder you in descent. From the summit reverse the route taken in ascent. Before descending, check that crampons etc are securely fastened. Extreme care and steady foot work are now required. The descent route is very exposed. You now have to descend 2436m back to the tram station at Nid d’Aigle. Good luck!

Mountain Rescue Contacts

Mountain Rescue in France:- Dial 112
PGHM (Pelotn De Gendarmerie De Haute-Montagne) Chamonix
Dial:- 00 33 4 50 53 16 89

Once connected:-
• Qui? :- Give your name & the phone number your calling from (including international dialling codes)
• Pourquoi? / What is the problem? :- what type of accident, number of victims, how serious / types of injuries (level of consciousness)
• Ou? :- Where? :- exact location : route – altitude
• Quand? :- When? :- give the time of the accident
• Meteo :- Weather conditions? :- wind speed, direction, visibility

Always be as safe and self-sufficient as possible in the mountains. Know your limits, carry basic survival equipment, but don’t carry too much! Make sure your mobile phone is fully charged before going on the mountain.

Local Mountain & Weather Information (Chamonix)

Visit the Mountain Office in Chamonix for first class information on current mountain conditions. They have a full 3D display of the Massif, the huts and lifts in the Chamonix area. In the same building is the Chamonix weather office which also has a fantastic array of information on display.
Current weather reports are posted outside this building on a notice board each day in French (more detailed) and in English. To find this building, go to the main tourist office and look over at the church, to your right is the Bureau the Guides office and on the top floor the Mountain Office.

Local web addresses: www.chamonix.com  www.leshouches.com  www.meteo.fr 

Address: Maison de la Montagne, 190 Place de I’Eglise – 74400 Chamonix.
Website details: www.ohm-chamonix.com / Phone 00 33 4 50 53 22 08
Information on avalanche conditions across the alps is available on the web. Check www.slf.ch (Swiss site) and for other countries  www.lawinen.org

Hut contact info…

Advanced booking is compulsory in the high mountain huts. Don’t attempt to make your way to one without a booking. There will be no squeezing in, sleeping on the floor etc. You will be asked to leave! The Gouter hut is ridiculously busy from the moment it opens till the time it closes. You are advised to book months in advance if you are to have any chance of getting a bed. Book a number of nights (using two different names) over a week long period. Then if the weather is poor you can chop and change the bookings. If the hut is fully booked, you can phone on the day you wish to arrive, in case of a cancellation. For about €35 you get a bed, dinner and breakfast. Extra food and water is always available (at a cost).

Tete Rousse hut: Altitude 3167meters: 68 beds:  Open June to September: 3hours from the Nid d’Aigle: Ph: 00 33 4 50 58 24 97.

Gouter hut: Altitude 3817meters: 108 beds: Open June to September: 6hours from the Nid d’Aigle: Ph: 00 33 4 50 54 40 93. Getting to this hut can be very dangerous! You must cross the Grand Couloir (GC). Timing and understanding is critical for a safe crossing of the GC. A helmet is also required. Many people have been seriously injured or killed crossing the GC. Take your time. You also have to cross it on the way down. It might be worth booking a second night in the Gouter in case you are slow on the summit day.

Vallot shelter: Altitude 4362meters: 15places MAX! : Open all year: This is an emergency shelter. Official hut information reads ‘you put your life in danger if you sleep in this hut with-out being properly acclimatised’. This shelter is often used during an ascent to re-warm and rest. It is very basic. There is a crude toilet and a small sleeping area. It is not designed for normal overnight usage, only for EMERGENCIES. You are not guaranteed finding a place in this hut!

Speed ascents…

The Mont Blanc ascent record time is based on the round trip time from the Place de I’Eglise in Chamonix. Racing to the summit is been a tradition that dates back to 1864. Try not to dwell on the following times as you struggle to the summit…

18th August 1864 – F.Morshead leaves Chamonix at midnight and reaches the summit at 10.10hrs. He then returns to Chamonix by 16.30hrs.

1865 – T.S Kennedy, Mc Cormick, Charles Hudson and Robert Hadow do a round trip in 16hours.

1968 – Jean-Marie Bourgeois and Rene Secretan reduce the record to 8hrs 48mins. This is achieved by the pair following a specific training programme to help them cope with the strain on their record breaking attempt.

30th July 1975 – Louis Bailly Bassin brings the time down to 8hrs 10mins. Competition heats up and tactics evolve. Support teams are used to provide refreshments and equipment during record breaking attempts.

27th July 1986 – P. Cusin and T. Gazan: 7hrs 56mins

13th July 1988 – P. Lestas: 6hrs 22mins

26th July 1988 – L. Smagghe: 5hrs 29mins

20th July 1990 – Current record 5hrs 10mins 14secs! Pierre-Andre Gobet reaches the summit from Chamonix in an amazing 3hrs 38mins and descends back to the valley in 1hr 32mins. Awesome!

GPS Waypoints…

Gouter Route:

Nid d’Aigle: 32T E 0329 065 N 5080 736

Baraque des Rognes: 32T E 0329 795 N 5081 225
 
Tete Rousse hut: 32T E 0330 590 N 5080 275

Gouter hut: 32T E 0331 510 N 5080 139

Vallot shelter: 32T E 0333 185 N 5078 418

Mont Blanc summit: 32T E 0334 118 N 5077 668

*Points are based on IGN TOP25 no 3531 ET map format UTM

*WGS 84 geodesic system

N.B
GPS is merely an extra tool to be used in conjunction with the basic navigational trilogy of 1:25,000 scale map, compass and altimeter. Points quoted are reference points for huts, cable car stations and characteristic summits. GPS is accurate to +/- 40meters, you must account for this margin for error when navigating.

Guided Ascents

You greatly increase you’re chance of getting to the summit if you hire a fully qualified UIAGM Mountain Guide. Statistically non guided parties have a 30% chance of success and guided parties have a 50% chance of summiting.

Check www.wilderplaces.com or email Robbie@wilderplaces.com for information on guided ascents of Mont Blanc with Robbie Fenlon.

Maps & Guide books

Mont Blanc 4808m 5 Routes to the Summit –
Francois Damilano: ISBN 2-9521881-0-6

Mont Blanc Massif (The 100 Finest Routes)-
Gaston Rebuffat: ISBN 0-906371-39-2

The Alpine 4000m Peaks (by the Classic Routes)-
Richard Goedeke: ISBN 1-898573-13-1

IGN carte tourisitique 1:25,000- Map 1 Chamonix-Mont Blanc & Map 2 St.Gervais les Bains
All of the above are available at  www.cordee .co.uk